Italian brand Fiorucci has unveiled the debut collection from its new
menswear artistic director, British designer Daniel Fletcher with
appointments during London Fashion Week Men’s.
The starting point for the autumn/winter 2020 collection for Fletcher
began with a visit to the Italian labels archive, explained the show notes,
where the designer “unearthed pieces that spoke of the brand’s disco past”
with original sketches, denim handpainted by Keith Haring and personal
artefacts belonging to Elio Fiorucci.
“I think it’s every designer’s dream to go into a brand with an archive
this rich and be able to use it to create something new,” explained
Fletcher on his new appointment. “Fiorucci is not just about fashion,
it’s about music and art and there’s a spirit that is unlike any other
brand that makes it so special.”
Fletcher has combined these archival tributes with inspiration from New
York nightlife in the 1970s and London’s club scene, to create what the
label describes as a “hedonistic melting pot of sex, music and expression”
with a “touch of Italian flare”.
Fiorucci unveils debut collection from new menswear artistic director,
Daniel Fletcher
For autumn/winter 2020, these influences find themselves worked over
core cotton and denim pieces, running alongside racing overalls reworked
into a contemporary silhouette. Satin has also become a key motif,
with Fletcher inspired by that disco heritage, worked the fabric into the
collection with bomber jackets and appliquéd ‘bang’ motif shirts.
Fletcher added: “For me, Fiorucci is a party brand and I wanted to
capture some of that magic. This mix of silhouette, colour palette and
references shouldn’t necessarily work together but somehow do in a
strange, wonderful melting pot that frames my first collection for
Fiorucci.”
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The menswear collection introduces tailoring for the first time with
flared wool trousers, a mustard tuxedo jacket and checked overcoats, as the
luxury label looks to grow its menswear category and international
appeal.
There is also a touch of Fletcher’s own aesthetic, with the British
designer showcasing his expertise with knitwear to the collection through
zebra tanks and lambswool crewnecks, which have been styled with vinyl
trousers and printed silk shirts.
Scroll futher to view the collection
Images: courtesy of Fiorucci, photography by Antonio Mingot