Dancing solo in front of draped curtains, models with gelled hair dished out moves in a 59 second clip shown as part of London Fashion Week’s first digital outing. This short video saw designer Bianca Saunders showcase her AW20 collection, which focused on tailoring and cutting techniques that captures movement in clothes.
In another film, Canadian designer Erdem exhibited a poetic and romantic setting for his AW20 pre collection. To a soundtrack of Paul Mottram’s Valse Triste, models moving in slowmotion wore billowing gowns and pretty florals. Roaming dreamily across a traditional film set, the images are interspersed with stills of flowers and collection close-ups. Erdem’s LFW video, while not directly shoppable, had the collection for sale on the brand’s website.
Menswear designer Daniel Fletcher, in a conversation with Miss Vogue on Instagram, said the brand was moving to a See Now Buy Now model, after re-evaluating how it was operating and wanting to narrow the gap between the audience seeing a collection and being able to buy it. The collection was not shoppable via Instagram.
A commercial disconnect
On its website, London Fashion Week designers each have with their own dedicated brand page, subdivided into content and industry, with the latter offering downloadable look books, requests for line sheets or links to showrooms. For buyers, some but not all brand pages contain sales information as not all designers are wholesaling a collection in June. Shopping the content on the LFW platform isn’t yet possible, but there are plenty of links to designer’s own websites and stores. As to forward ordering, wholesale or retail linkups, these are not integrated features and up to each brand to communicate.
A re-set of fashion week
While fashion week remains virtual, the industry is not so much resetting as it is responding to how it it can best present the new season without taking a leave of absence or incurring greater losses. Both the BFC and CFDA call for a system change, encouraging brands, designers and retailers to slow down, produce less merchandise and be strategic about how and when they intend to sell products. Both call for action on a grand scale, but for struggling designers fighting for survival, there is a tangible need for support in resources, not manifestos.
Despite being gender neutral, this outing of LFW fell during the traditional menswear and pre-collections calendar, which is one of the reasons to explain the absence of bigger brands like Burberry.
A different buzz
Mostly, however, the digital formula for presenting fashion needs to be reworked to create the same buzz captured by fashion shows. Despite the ingenuity of filmmakers, the theatrics and atmosphere of a catwalk presentation is difficult to emulate into a video short. Even if LFW’s digital collections reach a wider audience, the question of commercial viability remains to be seen. The visual and flamboyant pull of emerging designers that London is proud to showcase each season is only one facet of British fashion. The UK has a world leading luxury and retail sector that is by far the backbone of the industry, despite the devastating impact of Covid-19.
Fashion weeks must continue, if not offline than online, but the buzz must be measurable by more than click-throughs, likes and views. Emerging designers need a foothold and real support from buyers and retailers. Established brands need backing in a most annus horribilis to stay in business, sell their collections and have resources left for development. Not to mention the financial investment required to create the content and assets needed for digital fashion week. While there will be plenty of buyers and retailers on the LFW radar, there is no guarantee of intent to purchase.
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Photo: Erdem SS19, Catwalkpictures
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Les “syndromes pseudo-grippaux” ne sont pas tous des Covid-19, alerte l’Académie de médecine
Attention aux symptômes grippaux survenant cet été. S’ils peuvent être évocateurs d’un Covid-19, ils ne le sont pas tous. Dans un communiqué, l’Académie Nationale de Médecine appelle à un diagnostic différentiel plus large des syndromes pseudo-grippaux.
L’Académie Nationale de Médecine a publié un communiqué1 le 12 juin 2020 pour rappeler que les symptômes grippaux “ne seront pas tous des Covid-19 cet été”. Elle mentionne notamment la
survenue récente d’un foyer d’encéphalites à tiques (aussi appelé TBE) dans le bassin d’Oyonnax (Ain). Les premiers symptômes peuvent faire penser à un coronavirus : une fièvre, de la fatigue, des céphalées et des douleurs musculaires pendant 2 à 4 jours. Les symptômes suivant, qui apparaissent une à deux semaines plus tard, se traduisent par une méningo-encéphalite chez un tiers des malades. Pour rappel, cette pathologie se transmet principalement par une tique du genre Ixodes mais “pour la première fois en France” ce foyer qui a touché 26 personnes reconnaît une origine alimentaire. “Avec la belle saison, la raréfaction des nouveaux cas de Covid-19 en France doit faire élargir le diagnostic différentiel des syndromes pseudo-grippaux vers les infections estivales zoonotiques ou non”, conclut l’Académie, évoquant la
maladie de Lyme, la
leptospirose, l’
hépatite E, mais aussi les mycoplasmoses,
chlamydioses et entéroviroses. “Comme la TBE, plusieurs infections estivales sont transmissibles par une morsure de tique pouvant parfois inoculer plusieurs agents pathogènes simultanément”, peut-on lire dans le communiqué qui rappelle que les morsures de tiques “ne sont pas limitées en forêt aux sorties en forêt, qu’elles ont lieu dans un tiers des cas dans des jardins privés et des parcs publics et que les signalements ont doublé par comparaison avec les années précédentes”.
L’Académie recommande donc le maintien d’une vigilance pour la surveillance épidémiologique de Covid-19 mais de “ne pas oublier les syndromes pseudo-grippaux de l’été”. Avec l’Académie Vétérinaire, elles conseillent, donc :
- “De recourir systématiquement au diagnostic de laboratoire (RT-PCR complétée d’une
sérologie) devant toute suspicion clinique d’un Covid-19 ;
- D’évoquer, en cas de négativité répétée des
tests diagnostiques du Covid-19, une infection zoonotique devant tout syndrome grippal estival, en particulier lorsqu’il s’agit d’un foyer de plusieurs personnes atteintes dans une région riche en tiques ;
- De
prévenir les morsures de tiques en appliquant les recommandations habituelles pour les promenades en forêt mais aussi dans les jardins et les parcs publics.”
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Wolff: Reliability set to play ‘fundamental part’ in opening races
Mercedes boss Toto Wolff says reliability will play “a fundamental part” in the openings races of the 2020 season.
Formula 1 will kick off its long-awaited campaign on July 5 in Austria, an opening round that will be followed by another race at the Red Bull Ring a week later and six events unfolding thereafter into early September.
Given this year’s reduced schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, many drivers have highlighted the importance of consistency and the need to avoid costly mistakes.
But a similar premise applies to the teams, and especially Mercedes which encountered power unit issues earlier this year in pre-season testing in Barcelona.
-
Renault sees 2026 engine rules as sport’s ‘next battlefield’
And as a reminder, the Silver Arrows squad’s efforts at the Red Bull Ring last year were undermined by engine cooling issues.
“First of all this new calendar and the coronavirus throws some new challenges at us,” Wolff said, quoted by Crash.net.
“I think reliability is going to be a fundamental part of the opening races.
“The cars have come out of the container straight from Australia. There is not a lot of time for them on the dynos. We will be using every session to learn.
“The reduced race calendar is a challenge for everybody and again, I think that the team that has the quickest car and the most reliable package will win the championship.”
Wolff says the speed of its rivals in winter testing, including Ferrari’s relative lack of performance, offered only a very partial indication of the potential pecking order.
The Austrian is therefore keeping his expectations in check until everyone hits the track in Spielberg, insisting that more convergence has likely taken place on the engine front between F1’s four manufacturers.
“Last year’s Ferrari power unit was much more powerful, but we haven’t seen it yet,” he said.
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“Only in a qualifying session and the race is everyone really going to show their hand, and we haven’t seen that.
“I’m obviously always on the pessimistic side – we need to catch up, we need to come out with a reliable and powerful and drivable engine and I hope it’s enough.
“But I also wouldn’t discount Honda and Renault, I think pretty much every single power unit supplier is pretty much on par now.”
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Portimao in ‘negotiations’ for GP, Hockenheim wants decision
The Portuguese circuit of Portimao is the latest candidate for consideration to hold a Formula 1 Grand Prix in 2020, it’s emerged.
Organisers at the facility confirmed this weekend that they are in “strong negotiations” to hold a race or doubleheader event in the autumn, as the sport battles to rebuild a calendar badly disrupted by coronavirus.
Currently there are just eight confirmed races on this season’s schedule, all in Europe. F1 announced on Friday that postponed races in Azerbaijan, Singapore and Japan have now been formally abandoned for 2020, adding to previous cancellations for Australia, Monaco, the Netherlands and France.
- F1 officially cancels Azerbaijan, Singapore and Japan
F1 bosses have been looking at venues including Imola and Mugello as possible replacements for the lost races, and now Portimao is the latest name on the list under consideration.
“We are in contact with FOM and in strong negotiations,” a spokesperson from the circuit at Portimao told Motorsport.com. “It is a possibility.
“For now nothing is confirmed,” the spokesperson added. “But we know that there is a lot of willingness among the teams that Portugal be chosen for the calendar.
“We are working very hard and doing everything we can to have the F1 in our race track,” the statement added. “Any decision only will be made in July.
“We are the option that everyone wants – from the location, the track, the large facilities that allow greater safety distance, the climate, the hotels and the reduced impact in the country of COVID-19.”
It’s believed that the most likely dates for racing at Portimao are September 27 or October 4 with a possible back-to-back doubleheader, although the former weekend is currently still the official date for the Russian GP in Sochi.
If the race happens, it will be the first time that F1 will have headed to the Algarve. Formula 1 has raced in Portugal before, initially at Boavista and Monsanto but thereafter at Estoril between 1984 and 1996.
The 4.6km Portimao track opened in 2008 and holds the required FIA Grade 1 certification. It was used for testing as recently as 2009, with Lewis Hamilton the only driver currently on the F1 grid to have taken part at the time. However others such as Valtteri Bottas, Daniel Ricciardo and Sergio Perez have raced there in different categories.
F1 director of motorsports Ross Brawn said previously that the sport was looking at “a number of good European tracks where we could add another one or two races.”
As well as Mugello and Imola, Hockenheim had been mentioned in connection of stepping in for Silverstone in the event that the UK’s new quarantine for arrivals prevented races being held there.
With that obstacle now removed and the British rounds green-lit, Hockenheim is pushing to know whether it’s still in with a shot for a place on the revamped 2020 calendar.
“We cannot keep our calendar on standby for several weeks waiting for a date for the GP,” Hockenheim joint CEOs Jorn Teske and Jochen Nerpel told German agency Sid this week.
Teske and Nerpel stated that they would be “very happy to accept a feasible request” to hold a 2020 German Grand Prix but pointed out that adding more races to this year’s calendar “currently revolves only around speculation.”
The push to see the German GP back on this year’s calendar comes in the wake of the announcement that Sebastian Vettel is to leave Ferrari – and that this could be his final season in F1 altogether.
However Hockenheim is almost certain to have to operate a ‘closed doors’ protocol due to anti-coronavirus measures, meaning that if it is his home race swansong then it will be played out before empty grandstands.
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Le coronavirus pourrait être apparu dès l'été 2019 en Chine
Un bond dans les recherches internet des symptômes du Covid-19 et dans l’affluence dans les hôpitaux de la ville chinoise de Wuhan laissent penser que la maladie a pu apparaître sur place dès août 2019, selon les résultats d’une étude préliminaire américaine.
Des recherches laissent penser que la maladie a pu apparaître en Chine dès août 2019.<br />
Le coronavirus, qui vient d’un virus pouvant se transmettre de l’animal à l’homme, a été identifié pour la première fois dans le marché Huanan de Wuhan en Chine, où des animaux exotiques étaient vendus vivants, en décembre 2019.Des experts ont ensuite déterminé qu’une version génétique antérieure du virus avait émergé à la mi-novembre 2019. Un article du quotidien hongkongais South China Morning Post, a rapporté qu’un “patient zéro” avait été trouvé le 17 novembre citant des données gouvernementales.La nouvelle étude qui n’est pas encore apparue dans une publication de la communauté scientifique a été réalisée sous le prisme d’une discipline encore récente, “l’épidémiologie digitale”.Une équipe menée par Elaine Nsoesie de l’université de Boston, a analysé 111 images satellites de Wuhan sur une période allant de janvier 2018 à avril 2020.
“Une forte d’augmentation de l’affluence dès août 2019” a été détectée sur les parkings des hôpitaux de Wuhan, “culminant avec un pic en décembre 2019“, ont noté les auteurs de la recherche.Les scientifiques ont aussi surveillé les symptômes les plus tapés sur le moteur de recherche chinois Baidu.Les membres de l’étude ont vu un bond dans les recherches du mot “toux”, pouvant correspondre à la grippe saisonnière, mais aussi dans les recherches du mot “diarrhée”, qui est un symptôme plus spécifique du Covid-19.”En août, nous avons relevé un accroissement significatif des recherches liée à la diarrhée, qui n’avait jamais été observé lors des grippes saisonnières précédentes ou qui ne se reflétait pas dans les données concernant les recherches sur la toux“, ont expliqué les scientifiques.Si les symptômes les plus connus du coronavirus sont ceux respiratoires, l’étude suggère que la diarrhée “pourrait jouer un rôle important dans la transmission communautaire“, de la maladie.Les auteurs ont conclu que s’ils n’étaient pas en mesure d’affirmer de manière définitive que les données relevées étaient liées au Covid-19, l’étude corroborait les résultats d’une autre recherche sur le sujet.”Ces résultats corroborent aussi l’hypothèse que le virus est apparu de manière naturelle au sud de la Chine et qu’il circulait potentiellement déjà au moment du foyer épidémique de Wuhan“, ont-ils écrit.Click Here: Cheap FIJI Rugby Jersey
Bottas: ‘Consistency and being on it’ key to 2020 title
Valtteri Bottas will launch his 2020 season next month aiming to secure his maiden title in F1, but avoiding mistakes will be a prerequisite for reaching that ambitious goal.
Last year, Bottas was on a par with Mercedes teammate Lewis Hamilton at the start of the season, but the Finn eventually lost his footing, failing to win for 12 consecutive races while Hamilton’s championship bid rolled on unhindered.
Formula 1’s truncated and shortened season will put the spotlight on consistency from start to finish, from Austria to Abu Dhabi. And Bottas is all too aware of what will be required to prevail this year.
-
Mercedes not considering Vettel for 2021 insists Bottas
“Minimising every mistake and maximising every single race weekend is going to be the key, because every mistake is going to cost more than in a normal championship with more than 20 races,” the 30-year-old told Formula1.com.
“So just consistency and being on it, that’s going to be the key and we need to keep on, not to be overdoing things, and trusting your own skills and the team around you. I’m sure we can do that.
“It’s an interesting season ahead… there’s a bit of an unknown after the first eight races, how the calendar is going to be so we just need to take that week by week, month by month and we’ll see.”
©Mercedes
Mercedes warmed up its crews earlier this week at Silverstone, with both Hamilton and Bottas stretching their legs at the wheel of the 2018 Silver Arrow W09.
The Finn welcomed the track day although he had no issues getting up to speed.
“It took me just a few laps,” he said. “Of course, when you’re out of the car for some time as a driver, sometimes you think ‘do I know how to drive fast’ but I’ve been driving since I was a kid so it comes so [naturally], and I felt like [I did] in Barcelona testing so it was very nice.
“It was nice to get back confidence for the first race and be ready for it.”
Despite the degree of uncertainty surrounding his future with Mercedes, Bottas vowed to keep any distractions linked to 2021 at bay and his mind set on his sole objective: the world title.
“I have that one single target in my mind for the season and that’s it, take all the other things away,” he said.
“If I can follow all those targets, performance targets, and if our team can perform well, there’s going to be no worries about any contract.”
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